El Yunque made easy - A hike into Puerto Rico's rain forest that's fit for everyone
El Yunque made easy - A hike into Puerto Rico's rain forest that's fit for everyone.
by Nancy Stone
Copyright © 2006, Chicago Tribune
Published September 3, 2006
EL YUNQUE, Puerto Rico -- I think the first clue that I was a wee bit overdressed for my foray into Puerto Rico's Caribbean National Forest was when I looked down at my guide's feet and discovered he was wearing a pair of backless plastic clogs that were very clean and very lavender. The second clue was the kid with the suitcase.
On a hot and muggy Sunday in late June I set out for the rain forest more commonly known as El Yunque for what was advertised as a 6 1/2-hour trip of moderate-to-strenuous difficulty. I was the hiker dressed in long pants and hiking boots carrying a backpack full of bug spray, sunscreen, rain poncho, a big heavy bottle of water and trail mix I had brought with me from Chicago.
The rest of the hikers in my group of 10 were all at least 20 years younger than me and were uniformly clad in shorts, sneakers and bathing suits. None had backpacks. I was sure everyone would regret the lack of preparation--but as it turned out, no one did.
As we started down the nicely paved trail leading through the rain forest we were passed up by large families wearing nothing but flip flops on their feet. They were heading to the La Mina waterfalls where they would spend the day frolicking in the water and picnicking. There were very small children, parents, grandparents, even a boy who appeared to be about 9 pulling a huge rolling suitcase as if trying to catch a plane at O'Hare.
Our guide, Arnaldo Ruiz, explained to us that there are 2 million people on the island of Puerto Rico and 4 million cars. Aside from those figures' accuracy (the population is actually closer to 4 million), Ruiz' point was that Puerto Ricans don't like to walk and they certainly don't like to get their shoes dirty. I began to realize that maybe their idea of a moderate-to-strenuous hike was not the same as mine, and I sure longed for the shorts and sandals I left in my hotel room.
Bad decision
Even worse was my decision to forgo wearing my bathing suit out of fear that it would be too uncomfortable on such a long and hot journey.
Our moderate-to-strenuous hike through the only tropical rain forest in the United States apparently was an 0.8-mile saunter to that waterfall filled with happy-go-lucky day trippers, but it took about an hour to get there as Ruiz stopped along the way to teach us about the amazing biodiversity of the forest surrounding us. He pointed out plants like the blooming wild ginger, with its bright green pointy leaves and delicate white flowers, and the tabonuco tree, also known as the candlewood tree, which the Daino Indians used to make canoes and whose sap is still used to make torches. We learned hurricanes destroy tropical rain forests, and how important that is for regeneration and regrowth, and a bunch of other interesting facts that made it completely worthwhile signing up for the tour.
The waterfalls were impressive, and while everyone else frolicked in the cold clean water, I stood around in my long pants taking photos and wishing my underwear looked just a little bit more like bathing attire.
Cool spot
The path continued past La Mina up a mountain, and I gather that there are some nice views at the top and a good cardio workout getting there. But I have to admit that I was kind of relieved that after a splash in the pools our group turned around and headed back on the same path we arrived on.
The rain forest, with its enormous canopy of trees, was much cooler than it had been in San Juan, less than an hour's drive away, and dark enough that I didn't need my sunscreen. Surprisingly I didn't need bug spray either due to the three varieties of bats that live in the forest and feed on the mosquitoes.
The water is so pure you can drink it straight from the streams, although I didn't see anyone doing that, and with no bathrooms around and no place to hide I didn't even drink from that big bottle of water I'd brought.
Although it is always raining somewhere in the 28,000 acres of El Yunque, there was not a drop that fell during our visit, and my poncho remained buried in the backpack.
As for that trail mix carried from Chicago--I ate it on the plane on the way home.
----------
nstone@tribune.com
- - -
IF YOU GO
THE TOUR
I booked my excursion--"El Yunque Rainforest Hiking"--through the Internet with Viator (www.viator.com) for $65. I was picked up at the Marriott Hotel in Condado, but pickups are available at several other hotels in the San Juan area. And, other hotels book their own rain-forest trips.
The tour was actually run by Eco Action Tours (787-791-7509; www.ecoactiontours.com), which has other trips to the Caribbean National Forest (El Yunque). The company is also hoping to start a nighttime hiking trip so people can see more of the animal life, which is almost completely nocturnal.
The tour/hike went to La Mina Falls, a very popular destination for Puerto Rican families and tourists. The round-trip hike is under 2 miles, and much less difficult than its "moderate-to-strenuous" listing. I suggest wearing gym shoes, and a bathing suit under shorts and a T-shirt. The bathing suit is essential for swimming in the pools below La Mina Falls.
We were provided with a backpack, a small bag of chips and an 8-ounce bottle of water. I experienced no need for bug spray, and sunscreen isn't necessary along the well-shaded trail, though it comes in handy at the falls, where it's very sunny and hot.
On the route home we made a stop to climb the Yokahu Tower to see sweeping vistas of the rain forest and the beaches below, and another brief stop at La Coca Falls for a photo op.
--Nancy Stone
by Nancy Stone
Copyright © 2006, Chicago Tribune
Published September 3, 2006
EL YUNQUE, Puerto Rico -- I think the first clue that I was a wee bit overdressed for my foray into Puerto Rico's Caribbean National Forest was when I looked down at my guide's feet and discovered he was wearing a pair of backless plastic clogs that were very clean and very lavender. The second clue was the kid with the suitcase.
On a hot and muggy Sunday in late June I set out for the rain forest more commonly known as El Yunque for what was advertised as a 6 1/2-hour trip of moderate-to-strenuous difficulty. I was the hiker dressed in long pants and hiking boots carrying a backpack full of bug spray, sunscreen, rain poncho, a big heavy bottle of water and trail mix I had brought with me from Chicago.
The rest of the hikers in my group of 10 were all at least 20 years younger than me and were uniformly clad in shorts, sneakers and bathing suits. None had backpacks. I was sure everyone would regret the lack of preparation--but as it turned out, no one did.
As we started down the nicely paved trail leading through the rain forest we were passed up by large families wearing nothing but flip flops on their feet. They were heading to the La Mina waterfalls where they would spend the day frolicking in the water and picnicking. There were very small children, parents, grandparents, even a boy who appeared to be about 9 pulling a huge rolling suitcase as if trying to catch a plane at O'Hare.
Our guide, Arnaldo Ruiz, explained to us that there are 2 million people on the island of Puerto Rico and 4 million cars. Aside from those figures' accuracy (the population is actually closer to 4 million), Ruiz' point was that Puerto Ricans don't like to walk and they certainly don't like to get their shoes dirty. I began to realize that maybe their idea of a moderate-to-strenuous hike was not the same as mine, and I sure longed for the shorts and sandals I left in my hotel room.
Bad decision
Even worse was my decision to forgo wearing my bathing suit out of fear that it would be too uncomfortable on such a long and hot journey.
Our moderate-to-strenuous hike through the only tropical rain forest in the United States apparently was an 0.8-mile saunter to that waterfall filled with happy-go-lucky day trippers, but it took about an hour to get there as Ruiz stopped along the way to teach us about the amazing biodiversity of the forest surrounding us. He pointed out plants like the blooming wild ginger, with its bright green pointy leaves and delicate white flowers, and the tabonuco tree, also known as the candlewood tree, which the Daino Indians used to make canoes and whose sap is still used to make torches. We learned hurricanes destroy tropical rain forests, and how important that is for regeneration and regrowth, and a bunch of other interesting facts that made it completely worthwhile signing up for the tour.
The waterfalls were impressive, and while everyone else frolicked in the cold clean water, I stood around in my long pants taking photos and wishing my underwear looked just a little bit more like bathing attire.
Cool spot
The path continued past La Mina up a mountain, and I gather that there are some nice views at the top and a good cardio workout getting there. But I have to admit that I was kind of relieved that after a splash in the pools our group turned around and headed back on the same path we arrived on.
The rain forest, with its enormous canopy of trees, was much cooler than it had been in San Juan, less than an hour's drive away, and dark enough that I didn't need my sunscreen. Surprisingly I didn't need bug spray either due to the three varieties of bats that live in the forest and feed on the mosquitoes.
The water is so pure you can drink it straight from the streams, although I didn't see anyone doing that, and with no bathrooms around and no place to hide I didn't even drink from that big bottle of water I'd brought.
Although it is always raining somewhere in the 28,000 acres of El Yunque, there was not a drop that fell during our visit, and my poncho remained buried in the backpack.
As for that trail mix carried from Chicago--I ate it on the plane on the way home.
----------
nstone@tribune.com
- - -
IF YOU GO
THE TOUR
I booked my excursion--"El Yunque Rainforest Hiking"--through the Internet with Viator (www.viator.com) for $65. I was picked up at the Marriott Hotel in Condado, but pickups are available at several other hotels in the San Juan area. And, other hotels book their own rain-forest trips.
The tour was actually run by Eco Action Tours (787-791-7509; www.ecoactiontours.com), which has other trips to the Caribbean National Forest (El Yunque). The company is also hoping to start a nighttime hiking trip so people can see more of the animal life, which is almost completely nocturnal.
The tour/hike went to La Mina Falls, a very popular destination for Puerto Rican families and tourists. The round-trip hike is under 2 miles, and much less difficult than its "moderate-to-strenuous" listing. I suggest wearing gym shoes, and a bathing suit under shorts and a T-shirt. The bathing suit is essential for swimming in the pools below La Mina Falls.
We were provided with a backpack, a small bag of chips and an 8-ounce bottle of water. I experienced no need for bug spray, and sunscreen isn't necessary along the well-shaded trail, though it comes in handy at the falls, where it's very sunny and hot.
On the route home we made a stop to climb the Yokahu Tower to see sweeping vistas of the rain forest and the beaches below, and another brief stop at La Coca Falls for a photo op.
--Nancy Stone
posted by Carlos T Mock at 9:42 AM
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